"IS EVERYBODY IN, THE CEREMONY IS ABOUT TO BEGIN"
VARANASI
Older Than History
Mark Twain said in 1896: Older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.
Varanasi was my second solo trip to India, previously I had been to Goa but wanted to venture further into the real part of India. Nothing could prepare me for the stark contrast!
Safety
A lot of women worry for their safety when travelling to Varanasi, I can see why, it's a pretty insane place but with precaution its totally doable. I must admit I was nervous, but made sure I had a comfortable hotel as a retreat and initially I was very tempted just to remain inside the walls and watch all the madness go by from my balcony.
Palace on the Steps
I chose Palace on the Steps which is on the river front. It was a great choice as the Ganges is the embodying factor of the city. The Ganges has a significant spiritual connection with Hinduism and it is what has made Varanasi the spiritual capital of their religion.
The Cantoment district was a better choice for my second trip, It is a short trip away from the ghats and far more relaxing.
Banares or Kashi
Varanasi is like nowhere I have ever been, it is also called Banares or Kashi "city of light". Its chaotic, noisy, crowded, sometimes dirty, always suprising yet totally fascinating.
My first visit to Varanasi was in early January which was rather misty and cool, the second trip the following March was pleasantly warmer.
Boat Trip
My day started with breakfast on the roof terrace overlooking the Ganges, a couple of monkeys were happy to join me before quickly being chased away by the waiter. Afterwards I headed down the steep steps to the river and took one of the men up on their offer of a boat trip. It is a perfect introduction to life along the ghats.
You get a fascinating view of the people who come to Varanasi not only for ritual bathing, which is believed to wash away past sins, but also yoga, Sadhu's offering blessings, locals washing their buffalo, flower sellers, tourists improving their karma by giving to beggars or just simply to meditate and stare at the Ganges.
THE GHATS
Dashashwamedh Ghat
Dashashwamedh is the main and busiest ghat it is central and located near TheShri Kashi Vishnawath Temple. It's the most spectacular ghat with the famous Ganga Aarti performed here every evening at sunset. Aarti is a popular attraction with both locals and tourists where several priests offer prayer to the Ganges. Being the closest ghat to my hotel I felt safe to walk here for evening Aarti but wouln't advise solo female travellers walk around the dark narrow streets at night.
Assi Ghat
Assi ghat is the first ghat and one of the biggest, the river Assi meets the Ganges near here. Pilgrims come here to worship a lingam of Lord Shiva beneath a peepul tree, hawkers and street children tend to congregate here. I met three charming ladies here who were keen to share their lives with me.
Moksha
Westerners often find the cremation ghats in Varanasi difficult and quite disturbing but to hindus it is a truly auspicious celebration. They believe in Moksha, liberation from the circle of death and rebirth equalling entry into heaven instead of reincarnation. To die and be cremated in Varanasi instantly acheives Moksha. Widows and the elderly travel here to live out their final days, finding shelter in Temples. Watching the ceremony is to experience a different way of thinking about life and death.
Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats
Manikarnika and Harishchandra are the two main burning ghats, where you can freely watch cremations but respectful behaviour should be practiced at all times. Strictly no photography is allowed as it is believed to interfere with Moksha and may prevent entry in to heaven.
I have used library pics in this section.
Rituals
Dead bodies are handled byDom Raja's and are carried through the narrow streets of the old town to the Ganges on a bamboo stretcher wrapped in a white shroud. The corpse is dipped in the Ganges before cremation.The mourners are all male as women are not allowed on the cremation ground.
Large piles of wood are stacked along the top of the ghat, each log is weighed on large scales to determine the price of a cremation. Each type of wood has a different price ,sandalwood being the most expensive. The Doms Raja's know exactly how much wood is needed to completely incinerate the corpse. The process usually takes four to five hours, ashes are then gathered and scattered into the Ganges.
Be Careful
You will very likely to be asked by a local or a guide to the upper floor of the ghat to a nearby building for a better view of a cremation and then asked for a donation to the cost of the wood. Basically if you don't want to donate don't go. You can see clearly from the ghat level!
Harishchandra Ghat
Harishchandra is also a cremation ghat and is one of the oldest but much smaller than Manikarnika. It houses an electric crematorium and services are cheaper than traditional open funeral pyres but not as popular,
Darbhanga Ghat
Darbhanga ghat is home the Brijrama Palace Hotel, it is a favourite of rich westerners with its five star rating. It is luxurious compared with other hotels in Varanasi.
Scindia Ghat
Scindia Ghat is next to Manikarnika and has a partially submerged Shiva Temple, this was a result of excessive weight in the Ghat's reconstruction about 150 years ago. Above the Ghat are many of Varanasi's shrines called Sidda Kshetra which means field of fulfilment equalling "Moksha".
There are many Ghats, around ninety altogether, a stroll from Assi to Panchgang takes around forty five minutes to an hour. Sadhus sit along the Ghats, take time out to sit and chat with one or two, it is a great way to learn about Hindu culture and the history and myths of Varanasi.